You will need:

1. A Triumph rim 37-1007, or equivalent, rim pierced to accept .300″ diameter nipples.
2. A set of 40 spokes:
   • a. Buchanan part #Tri511 (specify Chrome or Stainless spokes and nipples)
   • 10 spokes 7 9/16″ long with 95 degree head – left (drive) outside
   • 10 spokes 7 9/16″ long with 90 degree head – left (drive) inside
   • 20 spokes 7 7/8″ long with 90 degree head – right side inside and outside.
   • 40 .300″ diameter nipples. Buchanan part number N10307.
3. Screw driver or modified offset-screw driver (picture below).
4. Spoke wrench.
5. Nipple lubricant.

Where to Start:

1. Verify that the holes pierced in the rims and the nipples measure .300.”Using a .250″ nipple in a .300″ hole can lead to wheel failure!
2. Lubricate the spoke threads using Buchanans lubricant. Lubricate the head of the nipple on the edge that bears on the wheel rim.
3. Place four nipples in rim as illustrated to identify how the rim is handed. This (37-1007) rim is handed and must be installed correctly.

This is a picture of a .250″ nipple in a .300″ hole. The nipple should fill the the hole in the rim! Using a .250″ nipple in a .300″ hole can lead to wheel failure!

Modified “Speed Driver” and 8″ Spoke wrench. Both save time and make the job easier, especially if your job is building wheels.THIS RIM (37-1007) is handed and must be installed the right way around! The rim is handed because the wheel hub has different diameter spoke flange holes on one side from the other.With practice you should be able to see the difference in dimpling and piercing that makes a rim handed. If you need some help try the method below:

• In the picture I have placed nipples in the rim and I am measuring the distance between two adjacent nipples which are angled, front to back, away from each other.
• Using the outside edge of the end of the nipple I get a measurement of 3″ (see picture below).
• I then move to the other side of the rim and take a measurement on the a pair (it will be in the range of 3 1/4″).
• By measuring the distance between the nipples you can determine which has a larger included angles.
• From the angle you can determine which way the rims should be installed. The widest distance between the tops of the nipples (3 1/4″ in my case) goes to the drive side.

1
Time to offer the first, or “key”", spoke. It will be the drive-side outside and it is located like this: (On some early hubs there is a little half moon cut next to the “key” spoke hole.)

2
You take the first key spoke(7 9/16″ – 95 degree head) offer it to the hub and rotate it anti-clockwise like this (then follow with other 9 spokes). Your wheel will look like this:

3
Next you take the last 10 drive side spokes (7 9/16″ – 90 degree head) and offer them like this:

4
Time to move across the hub to the right side. You offer the third set of 10 spokes, (7 7/8″ – 90 degree head angle) like this:

5
The last set of 10 spokes, with the (7 7/8″ – 90 degree head), are offered like this:

6
Here is a map of where the spokes go. If you look you can see that the wheel hub flange closest (TS) is smaller diameter than the far side (DS) flange.You should also be able to see the the two spokes on the small flange TS – nearest the camera) are nearly parallel while a similar pair on the other side are not.If the rim was mounted wrong way around the spokes would have to bend for the nipple to be able to seat in the rim. If your spokes bend as they enter the nipple, the rim is on backwards.

Problems to look out for:

1. Many modern replacement rims are a lighter gage than the original Jones and Dunlop. One should be sure to lubricate the underside of the head of the spoke nipple where it bears on the rim. This is especially important when using stainless nipples as they are prone to galling against the rims steel. One must be extra careful when using stainless nipples in a stainless rim. Lubricate the parts well before assembly and stop if the spoke stops getting tighter as you turn it.
2. Buchanan lists the spoke torque on the insert in their spoke packaging as such “For large displacement cycles, the torque should be in excess of 80 inch pounds. Hub and rim structure will determine the amount of torque that can be exerted.” The key to reading this sentence is “Hub and rim structure will determine the amount of torque that can be exerted.” See the brake drum in picture below. The spoke tension broke the cast hub.
3. Applying too much torque to a spoke can lead to failure. While the nipple can through the rim the cast hubs can also fail. This is a 1967-70 Triumph front hub.

Triumph IS NOT A LARGE DISPLACEMENT MOTORCYCLE as described in Buchanans instructions! The final torque using an aftermarket Triumph # 37-1007 rim would be more like 30 to 35 inch pounds. This can be a little bit tighter if using original Dunlop or Jones rim.
Definitions:

Key Spoke

The first of the ten spokes offered to the hub. In this case it does not refer to the spokes next to the tube hole in the rim.

Keyhole

The unique keyhole shaped spoke peircing on the TS hubs flange.

Cross Pattern

This wheel uses a cross three on both sides.

Dimple

The bulge pressed into the rim to accept the nipple. This rim is what is called 1×1 where the dimples alternate from one side to the other every other dimple. The front wheel for this bike uses a 2×2 pattern. This is where two dimples are on one side followed by two on the other side.

Piercing

The hole in the dimple for the nipple. There are three common sizes: .250″ and .300 used on British wheels and .281″ used on Japanese wheels. You should never use a nipple smaller than the piercing!!!

Drive Side and Timing Side

Refers to the side of the motorcycle. On this motorcycle the drive side is the left and timing side is the right side.

Text and Pictures Copyright John Healy 1998-2009

If it was Loctited by a DPO then this procedure and a little bit of heat (200-250F) applied to the face of the plug should release the Loctite enough to allow the plug to be removed.

2
We don’t want to put any more stress risers on the face of the flywheel, so we start by drilling straight into the face of the plug. What we want to do is remove the flywheel metal that is pushed against the plug.

3
We started the drill a little bit back from the edge and now we need to work the drill bit toward the edge. Slowly tip the drill aiming it toward the edge and let it start cutting away the folded metal. To free the plug you will have to remove a little bit of the flywheel, but be careful. Remove as little as possible.

4
The drill was first started straight, then tipped. Then the drill bit was allowed to walk toward the edge. When the edge of the drill bit starts to cut the flywheel metal distorted by the center punch it is time to stop.

5
Starting with the first drilling I continue and drill three holes along the plug’s screw driver slot. I then drive my Snap-On 1/2" drive screw driver bit into the three holes. I try to keep the holes as close together as I can. To connect the three holes, and allow the screw driver bit to get a solid purchase in the plug, I use a small chisel or carbide bit in my air grinder.

While I use a 1/2" drive impact wrench you can use a 1/2" drive ratchet to finish removing the plug.

6
While with age, the Loctite that is used to retain the bolt will degenerate and the bolt can be easily removed, If it does not come right out I find it safer to heat the head of the flywheel bolt to about 200 degrees F. I also heat both sides of the flywheel where the bolt’s threads are located.

Because some mechanics insist on using Red Loctite on this bolt, heating the bolt and the area the flywheel that houses the threaded portion of the bolt, is very important!

If one doesn’t take some precautions removing this bolt, it is easy to break it. If this happens removing the piece that remains in the flywheel can be a confounded nuisance and a job best suited for an expert.

7
I use a Tempastick to determine when I reach the temperature I am looking for. I try to constrain the heating to the head of the bolt. If I am having trouble getting the Loctite to release I apply localized heat to the bolt retaining area at the crankshaft. Lacking a Tempastick one can use a drop of water which will sizzle when the temperature reaches 200 – 212 F.

8
You can see where the three 1/4" holes were drilled in the plug to remove it. Even though the flywheel bolt has been loosened do not remove it as you will need it in place to keep the sludge tube from turning as you offer the removal tap.

9
In the old days people hooked the head of a spoke in the sludge tube and struggled to pull out the tube with a set of vise grip pliers. If all you have is a spoke you can get the tube out, but it will take a while. It is easier to use a tap, large easy out or other threaded device to do the job. I like using a 5/8"x 11 tap. You start threading the tap into the end of the sludge tube until it has caught. It usually takes less than a one full thread to have enough purchase to remove the the tube.

When the tap is secure in the tube thread it is time to remove the flywheel bolt. Once the flywheel bolt is removed place a 5/8" x 11 nut onto the tap and tighten it against the side of the flywheel. This will pull the tube out of the flywheel.

10
Tighten the nut against the face of the flywheel to withdraw the tube.

11
Actually this sludge tube appears pretty clean…

12
Use a screw driver, gun brushes and some spray brake cleaner (CRC Brakleen) and scrape and brush until the tube starts to get clean. Then wrap a paper shop rag around a medium sized screw driver and twist it into the hole. More spray cleaner and a half dozen, or more rags, clean the hole until you think it is spotless, and as my mentor always said, "Then clean for another ten minutes."

13
Don’t forget to clean the threads in the flywheel! Gun brushes are handy for these kind of jobs. Don’t forget the oil feed holes that feed the connecting rods and the oil supply drillings in the timing side main shaft. A spray can of brake clean with the small plastic tube that comes with the work well on both of these oil ways.

14
The remains of the Loctite can be seen on the threads. You can also see the "tit" that locates the sludge tube. Clean the bolt until it sparkles.

15
When you offer the new or cleaned tube to the flywheel, be sure to locate it so as the "tit" on the flywheel bolt can enter the larger of the three holes. Look down the flywheel hole to be sure the hole is properly aligned before offering the flywheel bolt.

16
Hex driver flywheel plugs are the way to go (Use a relaible dealer as there are some oversize ones being sold). To have as few stress risers as possible I like to re-punch the face of the plug, instead of the flywheel, into the area that was originally punched.

This displaces metal into the depression left from by the original punching. Place the tip of the center punch near the edge of the plug and drive a small bit of the plug into the original divot on the face of the flywheel.

The plug is not a place where you want to use Loctite! If you are driven to use something, a very little bit of Hermatite Blue sealant, ThreeBond #4, or Loctite 515 or 518 anaerobic gasket sealant on the threads wouldn’t hurt.

On occasions the threads of an aftermarket plug are cut too small and the plug screws in so the face of the plug is below the face of the flywheel. This can lead to a rare problem where the plug has the potential to block the flow of oil the rod bearings. There are numerous people making these plugs and it is worth the effort to obtain a plug that tightens so the face of the plug is flush with the side of the flywheel.

17
A few drops of blue Locite and the flywheel bolt is ready to be installed.

18
The flywheel bolt must be tightened to 33 foot pounds. Resist the temptation to believe that the Triumph engineers didn’t know what they were doing and over tighten this bolt. It would be a real pain if the bolt broke as you tighten it. Worse, if it broke later at speed.

There are other ways of removing the sludge tube. Some people use a large Easy Out while others, like Paul Ackerman a dealer in Maine, make a puller:

19
Using a short length of 1/2" threaded rod available in most big box stores for a few dollars and a 1/4" x 1/2" x 20tpi allen head grub screw you first drill and tap the rod 1/4" x 20.

20
The 1/4" allen grub screw is in fore ground while the threaded rod is being tapped 1/4" x 20.

21
You remove the sludge tube plug and flywheel bolt. You slide the 1/2" rod into the sludge tube while looking down the flywheel bolt hole. When the threaded hole in the 1/2" rod aligns with the flywheel bolt hole place the allen screw on a long allen wrench and lower it into the hole until you are able to thread it into the 1/2" bar. Be sure the top of the screw is clear of the flywheel bolt hole, but is sticking through the hole in the tube as illustrated above. Place a 1/2" nut, and a washer if necessary, on the rod and tighten the nut. This will pull the tube out of the flywheel.

Copyright TIOC, Vintage Bike and John Healy 2009.

• Small serrated bread knife to cut foam.
• Hair dyer or small heat gun to soften vinyl.
• Rubber mat to keep seat from sliding all over table.
• Two bags of common spring close clothes pins.
• Contact cement to glue cover flap to seat pan.
• A sunny day, a desk lamp with a 150 to 300 watt bulb or some other way to warm the vinyl. (This is not a job for an unheated garage workshop in Bimiji, Minnesota in February)

1
A serrated bread knife slices the foam easily. The back section of the after market seat foams are not level. Here I am cutting about 3 inches of the foam away to level it.

2
You will have to remove the flash from around the edge of the foam before offering it to the cover.

3
Removing the flash from the side edge of the foam. Use a sawing action with the knife. Try to keep the knife blade level with the bottom of the foam. The edge will be a bit ragged and it is nice to grind it smooth.

4
I use a rubberized grinding wheel to clean-up the edges cut with the knife. A stone grinding wheel will also work. The wheel can be quite aggressive so go slow and easy.

5
Pushing the foam into place making sure that it is centered on the cover.

6
When you offer the pan you want the sewn section at the front flap to end up inside the pan's sides. Once you get it located correctly place three clothes pins on each side to hold the cover in place.

7
Once you get the clothes pins in place you can turn the seat over and check the alignment of the cover on the foam. You want the cover top section to lay in perfect alignment with the top of the foam. Now is the time to make adjustments.

8
At first the cover will not stretch over the back edge of the pan. This will come later. Pull the cover as tight as you can and use 4 clothes pins to keep it in place. Turn the seat over at this point and check the alignment of the Triumph logo. The "U" should be in the center as you look from the back. This is also a good time to check the cover placement on the foam. The sewn edge, and piping should follow the top of the foam.

9
Lay the seat on its side and in turn pull the middle of the cover taught on the foam. When both sides are secure with three clothes pins turn the seat over and check alignment again.

10
Placing the seat on an old coffee can (I keep the clothes pins in) I lower the desk lamp with a 300 watt bulb so it is 8 to 10" away from the cover. I let it sit there for 15 minute or so the cover can soften. This will be repeated several times before the cover has enough tension to hold its shape. Notice the cover is placed squarely on the top of the foam and he "U" in the Triumph logo is in the center of the seat.

11
WIth the cover's vinyl softened Pull the back of the cover over the pan's edge. You won't get of the cover much over the edge. Secure it with 4 or 5 clothes pins. Then pull move to the side just in front of the point where the foam forms the rear "hump." Alternatively pull the cover taught on each side and secure it with 3 or 4 clothes pins.

12
With the 4 or so clothes holding the side you can remove the 4 clothes pins from the back and with as much pull as

13
Use the palm of your hand to push on the cover while you secure it with your fingers. Lift a finger to place a pin in place as you go around. repeat this on the other side.

14
Working the other side of the cover into place.

15
Time to flip the seat and check progress. The foam is centered on the pan; the cover is centered on the foam and the logo is level and centered. That said, the back of the cover isn't tight enough yet. You can see the cover bulge behind the piping. Another round of warming and pulling are needed.

16
The finished cover ready to receive the chrome plastic trim. By pulling the cover tighter on the side just in front of the two "hump" they were not pulled flat. You will also note that there are some blemishes in the material from being folded.

17
This is the worst of the flinging blemishes and will be removed by careful heating. This material has a memory and when warmed will return to its original texture. If you are in a sunny area all that is needed is to place the cover in the sun.

18
If it’s Winter in Bemiji you will need to warm the blemish with a hair dryer. It isn't as much as how much heat you apply, but for how long. That is why the sun works so well. Go slow, moving the heat source around not leaving it in one area for more than a couple seconds. No need to go for perfect as the first time the cover gets into the sun all of the blemishes will disappear. A word of caution: Vinyl melts very easily at a very low temperature. We are warming the material, not heating it. There is always several blemishes on theses covers. This cover had six. It's unavoidable. I work a blemished area for several seconds and then move to one of the other blemishes.

19
The vinyl chrome seat trim also needs to be warm. Again the sun is the best source of heat. If there is no sun the hair drier can be used. Remember warm. Taking off the first several clothes pins from the front, pull the cover while holding the open end of the trim over the edge. To prevent the sharp edge of the trim from cutting the cover as it is offered file the sharp corner round with a smooth file. Then holding the trim at a 45° degree angle with your thumb push the tim over the cover. Now starts a little dance of pushing the trim down over the edge with your thumb just above the point where the cover is entering the trim, guiding it with the trim resting in your curled fingers keeping it a slight upward angle and removing a couple of clothes pins as you go. You want only about an 1" or 1 1/2" between the point where the trim is just starting to cover the cover and the next clothes pin. If using a hair dryer to warm the trim you will have to heat 6" or 8" as you go around the seat.

20
Once the seat trim is in place, trim the excess material under the seat leaving 3/8" to 1/2" all around. I like to bevel the corners of the flap, though they can be folded over and held with contact cement. The contact cement will work when used on the outside of the cover material so the sides of the flap can be folded over, held by contact cement, and the outer surface of the cover glued to the pan.

21
Coat the inside of the flap and the front area of the pan where the flap with be glued. Vigorously work the contact cement into the material and put a thin coat on the pan itself. Wait for the cement to dry to the touch (so it is not wet 15 to 30 minutes). Fold the sides of the flap over on itself if required to narrow the flap and push the flap over the end of the and rub it down hard, so the contact cement holds the flap in place.

A bit of warning about contact cement; READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and use it in a well ventilated space.

Copyright John Healy 2010 Pictures are the property of John Healy