Removing Triumph Sludge Tube

The first challenge is removing the slotted plug from the flywheel. Removing this plug gives you
access to the sludge tube. The plug should not have been Loctited and should only be prevented from
unscrewing by the center punch on the face of the flywheel.

If it was Loctited by a DPO then this procedure and a little bit of heat (200-250F) applied to the
face of the plug should release the Loctite enough to allow the plug to be removed.

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We don't want to put any more stress risers on the face of the flywheel, so we start
by drilling straight into the face of of the plug. What we want to do is remove the
flywheel metal that is pushed against the plug.

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We started the drill a little bit back from the edge and now we need to work the
drill bit toward the edge. Slowly tip the drill aiming it toward the edge and let it start
cutting away the folded metal. To free the plug you will have to remove a little bit
of the flywheel, but be careful. Remove as little as possible.

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The drill was first started straight, then tipped. Then the drill bit was allowed to walk toward the edge.
When the edge of the drill bit starts to cut the flywheel metal distorted by the center punch it is time to stop.

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Starting with the first drilling I continue and drill three holes along the plug's screw driver slot.
I then drive my Snap-On 1/2" drive screw driver bit into the three holes. I try to keep the holes as
close together as I can. To connect the three holes, and allow the screw driver bit to get a solid
purchase in the plug, I use a small chisel or carbide bit in my air grinder.

While I use a 1/2" drive impact wrench you can use a 1/2" drive ratchet to finish removing
the plug.

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While with age, the Loctite that is used to retain the bolt will degenerate and the bolt can be easily
removed, If it does not come right out I find it safer to heat the head of the flywheel bolt to about 200
degrees F. I also heat both sides of the flywheel where the bolt's threads are located.

Because some mechanics insist on using Red Loctite on this bolt, heating the bolt and the area
the flywheel that houses the threaded portion of the bolt, is very important!

If one doesn't take some precautions removing this bolt, it is easy to break it. If this happens
removing the piece that remains in the flywheel can be a confounded nuisance and a job best suited
for an expert.

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I use a Tempastick to determine when I reach the temperature I am looking for. I try to constrain the
heating to the head of the bolt. If I am having trouble getting the Loctite to release I apply localized
heat to the bolt retaining area at the crankshaft. Lacking a Tempastick one can use a drop of water which
will sizzle when the temperature reaches 200 - 212 F.

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You can see where the three 1/4" holes were drilled in the plug to remove it.
Even though the flywheel bolt has been loosened do not remove it as you will
need it in place to keep the sludge tube from turning as you offer the removal tap.

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In the old days people hooked the head of a spoke in the sludge tube and struggled to
pull out the tube with a set of vise grip pliers. If all you have is a spoke you can get the tube out,
but it will take a while. It is easier to use a tap, large easy out or other threaded device to do
the job. I like using a 5/8"x 11 tap. You start threading the tap into the end of the sludge tube until
it has caught. It usually takes less than a one full thread to have enough purchase to remove the
the tube.

When the tap is secure in the tube thread it is time to remove the flywheel bolt. Once the
flywheel bolt is removed place a 5/8" x 11 nut onto the tap and tighten it against the side of the
flywheel. This will pull the tube out of the flywheel.

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Tighten the nut against the face of the flywheel to withdraw the tube.

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Actually this sludge tube appears pretty clean...

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Use a screw driver, gun brushes and some spray brake cleaner (CRC Brakleen) and scrape
and brush until the tube starts to get clean. Then wrap a paper shop rag around a medium sized
screw driver and twist it into the hole. More spray cleaner and a half dozen, or more rags, clean the
hole until you think it is spotless, and as my mentor said always said, "Then clean it for another
ten minutes.

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Don't forget to clean the threads in the flywheel! Gun brushes are handy for these kind of jobs.
Don't forget the oil feed holes that feed the connecting rods and the oil supply drillings in the
timing side main shaft. A spray can of brake clean with the small plastic tube that comes with
the work well on both of these oil ways.

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The remains of the Loctite can be seen on the threads. You can also see the "tit" that locates the
sludge tube. Clean the bolt until it sparkles.

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When you offer the new or cleaned tube to the flywheel, be sure to locate it so as the "tit" on the flywheel
bolt can enter the larger of the three holes. Look down the flywheel hole to be sure the hole is properly
aligned before offering the flywheel bolt.

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Hex driver flywheel plugs are the way to go (Use a relaible dealer as there are some oversize
ones being sold). To have as few stress risers as possible I like to re-punch the face of the plug,
instead of the flywheel, into the area that was originally punched.

This displaces metal into the depression left from by the original punching. Place the tip of the
center punch near the edge of the plug and drive a small bit of the plug into the original divot on the
face of the flywheel.

The plug is not a place where you want to use Loctite! If you are driven to use something,
a very little bit of Hermatite Blue sealant, ThreeBond #4, or Loctite 515 or 518 anaerobic gasket
sealant on the threads wouldn't hurt.

On occasions the threads of an aftermarket plug are cut too small and the plug screws in so the face of the
plug is below the face of the flywheel. This can lead to a rare problem where the plug has the potential
to block the flow of oil the rod bearings. There are numerous people making these plugs and it is
worth the effort to obtain a plug that tightens so the face of the plug is flush with the side of the flywheel.

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A few drops of blue Locite and the flywheel bolt is ready to be installed.

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The flywheel bolt must be tightened to 33 foot pounds. Resist the temptation to believe that
the Triumph engineers didn't know what they were doing and over tighten this bolt. It would be a
real pain if the bolt broke as you tighten it. Worse, if it broke later at speed.

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There are other ways of removing the sludge tube. Some people use a large
Easy Out while others, like Paul Ackerman a dealer in Maine, make a puller:

Using a short length of 1/2" threaded rod available in most big box stores for a few dollars and
a 1/4" x 1/2" x 20tpi allen head grub screw you first drill and tap the rod 1/4" x 20.

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The 1/4" allen grub screw is in fore ground while the threaded rod is being tapped 1/4" x 20.

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You remove the sludge tube plug and flywheel bolt. You slide the 1/2" rod into the sludge tube
while looking down the flywheel bolt hole. When the threaded hole in the 1/2" rod aligns with the
flywheel bolt hole place the allen screw on a long allen wrench and lower it into the hole until you are able
to thread it into the 1/2" bar. Be sure the top of the screw is clear of the flywheel bolt hole, but is sticking
up through the hole in the tube as illustrated above. Place a 1/2" nut, and a washer if necessary,
on the rod and tighten the nut. This will pull the tube out of the flywheel.